Illustration by Lee Hyeon-a
[Trendy Eats] Long known as a district for expats, Haebangchon was once far from trendy but is currently going through a renaissance.
Long known as a district for English language teachers and other expats in Seoul, Haebangchon was once far from trendy to the average Korean. But with the rebirth of Itaewon and nearby Gyeongnidan as vibrant, commercial areas boasting chic restaurants and cafes, Haebangchon has been going through a renaissance of its own.
Lim Mi-yeong, the owner of cafe 12EA, describes the area as an ethnically diverse, colorful part of the capital with scenic surroundings.
“I wasn’t planning on opening a cafe here. In fact, at first, I was scanning the area to find a studio space,” she said. “But after taking in the charms of the neighborhood and the view of Mount Namsan from Haebangchon, I was hooked.”
These days, Haebangchon is a residential area that is gentrifying quickly, and it is quite typical to see women out with their children, expats out for an afternoon or couples in comfortable outfits having brunch or early dinners on weekends.
But for decades, Haebangchon was one of the poorest neighborhoods in Seoul with an overabundance of run-down houses. As the demographic shifted, so did the area’s reputation.
One of the first groups of residents to live in Haebangchon were the Japanese, when Yongsan District was occupied by the Japanese military during the colonial period (1910-1945).
12EA
After liberation, North Korean refugees replaced the Japanese and the area was soon filled with shanties. Around this time, the area came to be called Haebangchon, which means “liberation town.” These days, it is often abbreviated as the HBC.
When the U.S. Army moved into Yongsan during the Korean War, expats from the United States moved in, followed by people from Canada, the Philippines and Nigeria. This mix of cultures still exists to this day.
Oh Sang-seok, the owner of Indigo restaurant, said that around 80 percent of his customers hail from countries around the world.
Indigo, one of the first Western restaurants to open in the area, features more than 70 dishes, including its popular American-style sandwiches and pasta. Oh said that his menu has become more diverse because foreign regulars have asked him to add food from their home countries.
“One of my regulars from Louisiana, said a couple of days ago that they really missed gumbo and asked if I could incorporate it into the menu,” Oh said.
Another HBC restaurant that has customers lining up is Casablanca, which opened last year. The Moroccan restaurant closes whenever it is out of baguettes, but the number of loaves they make every day is a secret, according to Wahid, who owns the restaurant with his brother Karim.
The two brothers serve up Moroccan-style sandwiches with lamb, spiced shrimp, chicken and vegetables.
Lee Yu-jin, a regular visitor, said that the spiced shrimp sandwich is “something even Koreans have to look out for” because it is so spicy.
Across the street from Casablanca are the two restaurants in the area that tend to be the most frequently reviewed by Korean food bloggers: Hackney and Jacoby’s Burger.
The concept for Hackney’s interior came from owner Yum Yeong-il’s background in film. The interior is painted in gray and accented by photos of people wearing colorful glasses.
Jacoby’s Burger
The food at Hackney is anchored by its sourdough bread. The owner bakes the bread every morning and it is used in all of Hackney’s sandwiches, including its famous apple and bacon sandwich. The restaurant also features a delectable bread pudding that is baked with five different kinds of bread and covered with vanilla custard cream and nuts.
Jacoby’s Burger, which opened in 2008, offers American-style burgers with fat, juicy patties and a few slices of cheese.
Owner Gi Seung-ju said he fell in love with American burgers while living in the United States.
“The only food that was able to fill me up with a small amount of money was burgers,” Gi said, adding that the restaurant is named after a friend of his who served on the U.S. Army base in Yongsan.
“Jacoby passed away while serving in Iraq and I wanted to name the restaurant after him,” Gi said.
Damotori
There are 20 burgers on the menu and customers can customize their burger by choosing a type of bread, patty and side dish.
But the most popular item at Jacoby’s is the Gut Buster Burger. It is made with 15 ingredients including two large patties each weighing 230 grams and three types of cheese.
Meanwhile, over at the Italian restaurant Noa, regulars like Lee Seung-whan say they can’t get enough of the freshly made pasta.
“The pasta dishes that the chef invents himself are to die for,” Lee said.
The chef and owner, Lee Bum-chul, changes his pasta menu constantly to incorporate seasonal ingredients. This spring, he is featuring a Korean beef and sweet tomato pasta.
“I heat the tomatoes in the oven at 80 degree Celsius for more than six hours to get the tomato sauce sweet and savory,” Lee said.
Up the street, The Local has become popular with those who want to loosen up a bit and move to some live music. The bar features live bands and a wide range of cocktails and wine.
Every Thursday, The Local holds a quiz night with prizes, and upcoming events are updated daily on the bar’s Facebook page. The bar also welcomes amateur musicians who want to play.
“Anyone who is willing to perform at our bar can contact me through our Facebook page,” said owner Yu Ga-young.
Another popular night spot is Damotori, which serves a wide variety of makgeolli (rice beer) from around the country.
Damotori offers more than 20 different kinds of makgeolli and six kinds of fruit makgeolli. Customers can also order a makgeolli sampler, which comes with five different kinds of makgeolli for only 2,000 won ($1.80).
“I recommend the Hayangyeonkkot makgeolli from Dangjin, South Chungcheong,” said Kim Keun-hong, the owner of Damotori. “People who like the simple, original taste of makgeolli will love it.”
Meanwhile, 12EA owner Lim Mi-yeong said that although she didn’t intend to open her teahouse in Haebangchon, things have worked out well.
After moving in, she transformed part of her studio into a cafe. Today, she continues to do her artwork there. In one corner of the cafe, Lim has a crafts station where she offers classes in knitting or accessories making.
The cafe is always filled with organic tea that Lim blends herself.
“All of the ingredients for the tea came from various regions of Korea,” Lim said. The apples for the cinnamon-apple tea are from Hamyang, South Gyeongsan, and the balloon flower roots for the balloon flower tea come from Hoengseong, Gangwon.
Kim Won-kyung, a regular at 12EA, said that the tea has kept her coming back.
“The subtle flavor of each tea at 12EA and the serene, laid-back atmosphere of the area always invigorate me,” Kim said.
By Special Reporting Team [estyle@joongang.co.kr]
12EA
All of the tea available at 12EA is made by the owner and the ingredients are preserved for at least three months. One of the best-selling creations is the acacia tea, which is popular in the summer. In the winter, the cinnamon-apple, bell flower and jujube teas are the most popular.
The owner is a knitting enthusiast and exhibits knitted products on the premises.
Prices range from 4,000 won to 6,000 won.
Hours are from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. The cafe is closed on Mondays.
(02) 3785-0120
Indigo
Indigo, one of the first Western-style restaurants to open in the HBC, initially became popular for its sandwiches. But now the restaurant features more than 70 dishes, including its famous basil pesto sandwich, hummus, meat pies and curry pasta, as well as six dishes just for vegetarians.
Prices range from 5,000 won to 16,000 won.Hours are from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Tuesdays through Saturdays and from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays.
(02) 749-0508
The Local
Customers can enjoy a wide variety of cocktails and wine at The Local, along with a lively atmosphere and live music by amateur bands.
People who want to perform are always welcomed since the owner is open to all types of music.
The Local’s Facebook page is updated daily with photos and notices about performances and special discounts.
Drinks range from 3,000 won ($2.70) to 10,000 won.
Hours are from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily.
(070) 7526-2530
Jacoby’s Burger
Just one burger at Jacoby’s will make almost anyone feel full. In addition to the sheer size of the burgers, this popular joint is known for high quality patties made with Wagyu beef. Customers can order their burger any way they like it, selecting their favorite bread, cheese and other fillings.
Prices range from 10,000 won to 20,000 won.
Hours are from 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. from Mondays to Thursdays and 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays to Sundays.
(02) 3785-0433
Noa
Known as a cozy, casual brunch place in the HBC, Noa is also popular for its original pasta dishes.
The pasta menu includes such experimental fare as hanwoo (Korean beef) pasta with a unique tomato sauce.
Prices range from 10,000 won to 19,000 won.
Hours are from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
(02) 796-0804
Hackney
Hackney became famous for its handmade sourdough bread, which is used to make sandwiches chock full of cheese and meat. The salad and pasta are also popular. For dessert, Hackney serves a tasty bread pudding that is baked with five different kinds of bread covered with vanilla custard cream and nuts.
Prices range from 3,500 won to 16,000 won.
Hours are from 12 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Fridays and from 12 a.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays to Sundays.
(02) 794-2668
Damotori
Damotori serves up makgeolli (rice beer) from 20 regions around Korea and a variety of homemade fruit makgeolli. For the indecisive, Damotori offers a makgeolli sampler with five varieties for only 2,000 won.
The restaurant also serves Korean dishes such as kimchi jeon (pancakes) and dubu kimchi (tofu with grilled kimchi).
Prices range from 2,000 won to 18,000 won.
Hours are from 6 p.m. to 12 a.m. Mondays to Fridays and from 6 p.m. to 3 a.m. on Saturdays.
(070) 8950-8362
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